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.50" Browning Machine Gun - 100 rounds in linked belt.

Bockscar

Well-Known Member
Well, a restoration of sorts!
A good few years back I managed to purchase 100 .50" BMG cases and links, the idea being that I would get around to getting a hold of projectiles to put in them so I could display a complete belt. The time passed and no projectiles were forthcoming and the other things got in the way - you know how it is!
Anyway, last year I managed to get hold of a small unserviceable modelmakers lathe out of the blue and very quickly I knew what its first job would be!
Problems with getting a hold of a PCB for the lathe and then getting a wiring diagram were finally solved early this year and I began to manufacture wooden projectiles for my cases in earnest.
The project went smoothly through all stages and the lathe performed excellently (good operator maybe!). Last thing to do was make up a small crimping tool to secure the wooden projectiles to the cases and we were ready to paint.
Paints from the modelmaking box were used to paint the projectilebodies as well as the Tracer and A/P tip colours ( I have portrayed this belt as 3 ball 1 Tracer and 1 A/P). I was going to leave the cases the way they came but later decided they were to dirty and so decided to clean them up and go for the factory fresh look!
It was fun doing the project and I am pleased with ther end result as it means that the rounds can go on display at last instead of living in the old ammo can hidden out of sight!

Bockscar.

a35.jpg
 
Thanks Hangarman,

I did toy with the idea of making them from steel or even copper itself, but decided in the end to go for wood...its real cheap and so easy to machine, it was the only way to go really.

Bockscar.
 
Very convincing,without your explanation they could be taken for the real thing,well done,realistic paint job too,
Regards,
Don,
 
Wow! They look great!

On that note, I recently inquired about pricing for some machine work. Was wanting some 1/4 scale .30-06 (Cal. .30) to fill the belts on a couple of display guns on the shelves. To be made out of brass. Was advised the cost difference between alum. and brass would be minimal considering the quantity needed. The "bullets" are just over an inch long. Anyway, got the quote back. $75 set-up fee and $1.50/rd. That would come out to $225. I WAS wanting 100 of them. WAS. I'd whittled out a couple on my little Unimat, but it's just too time consuming and the results are less than desired. They would used a CNC lathe and have the project done in an hour, probably. Oh well.


All that to say: Bockscar, I know what you went through in making those projectiles. RESPECK!
 
Nice job. How did you manage to get the ogive shape so well and equally? did you use a template on your lathe?

Kees
 
Very nice job. I wouldn't have known that they were made of wood.

What paint did you use for the copper effect?

What are the headstamps on the cases?
 
Beihan62, Slick, Thekees, Falcon,

Thanks for the great comments guys.....makes the work all worthwhile! I shall try and answer your question in one post here.
Slick, Thats a pity the way it all worked out with your miniature bullets project, they would have been great to see in the flesh as it were. I am a Turner to trade and machining curves always was the most difficult thing to on an ordinary manual lathe...sure you could get fairly good with a load of practice over time but you will never get two the same unless you complete the job with some sort of device that can generate the form you want again and again. Devices can be made that can turn spheres from round bar, and so from this I reckon it it could be possible to make something up to fit on the lathe that could generat the particular curve you require.
Check out the model engineering forums...they can be a gold mine of information. Some guys have transformed these small modelmakers lathes by making them CNC capable, and looking at the details it is fairly easily done, in which case machining repeatable curves becomes childs play!

Thekees, machining the curve on my projectiles was actually solved without too much thought on my part as it was something I had done over the years whilst machining woods and plastics and to a lesser degree metals. Simply grind a section of tool steel to the same form as a .50" calibre bullet side profile, then add the neccessary clearances required. Mount the projectile in the lathe and get it running true, next mount the tool steel loose n the tool post and bring into position touching the projectile so that it marries up. Tighten the tool steel into the tool post carefully to stop it moving away from the projectile and note the dial settings. Actual cutting was done simply by applying the cutter to the wood until the form was generated and the original dial settings were reached...after that a quick touch up with sandpaper to finish.
Thekees, I would be tempted to try this method out on your project....
Falcon, good to hear from you again the first coat of paint used was Humbrol antique bronze which looked good if a bit too dark but the grain lift on the wood was terrible so it was sanded back smooth which led to the grain showing through again. experimenting again I went for Humbrol copper but this was far too bright, looking like fresh cut copper metal and of course the grain lifted again!! It was at this point that I decided to use Brasso and a fine scouring pad to clean up one brass case in the lathe just to see how it came out in the course of which black Brasso liquid got onto the projectile and stained it. A very light going over with the scourer took care of the grain lift and got the Brasso into the paint, and hey presto, the perfect finish by accident! no one was more suprised than me!
The case headstamps are K 70 L11A2 ( every one of them!)

Bockscar.
 
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